NOT a Percy Blandford restoration but similar

[Rapier]

I can't see whether the gauge has a conventional push on fitting for pitot pipe...if it does then you just need a conventional sender unit - modern designs are not far off the Smiths units of the 1960s. Strangely enough saw a Smiths gauge like that on ebay saved it, but discounted it as too slow for us - of course can't find it now ...bezel was a bit bumped though.

Will approach another crowd....I did think about the bulk buy too, but I think would be too pricey with conventional shipping, would be fine if sold on with the costs buried...

[Alacrity]

Maybe a bulk buy from the States would help spread the expenses????

That would seem to be the best option as I see it. I may be able to help with the shipping.

[Rapier]

Here's the speedo...was wrong though is no slow boat to china version.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-vintage ... 7675.l2557

Guess is all in the costings..

[Woodwych]

It looks great and very smooth!
Can I ask what your epoxy coating technique was and what grade sand paper was used before the paint went on?
I'm about to do the same..

[Sicobra]

The speedo has 2 pipe fittings, one in, one out and the pipes come from the accumulator to the speedo via a valve that you use to adjust the reading accuracy, I will try and get some extra pics up tonight. This is the company I used for the screen seal as they had the best price I could find, http://www.jmsonline.net/deck-channel-white-vinyl.htm
I too saw that speedo listing but I had already got mine by then.

[Sicobra]

re epoxy I basically followed the West System instructions, http://www.westsystem.com/ss/barrier-coating/
I did make sure that the temperatures of both the garage, hull and epoxy were all the same so heated overnight prior to application. Having not done this before I found it pretty straight forward making sure each coat had gelled before applying the next. I left it for about 4 days before scrubbing and washing down to remove any bloom as you dont want to sand it in as the paint won't take to it. For final finish I used an orbital DA sander with 180 grit automotive disks on the large areas and by hand on the tight spots being careful not to sand through to the wood, if you do you can always apply some more epoxy. A light guide coat before final sanding highlighted and high and low spots but there were very few that needed addressing.

[Sicobra]

One aspect that i had forgotten to mention, on the very tip of the bow a previous owner had sanded through the top layer of ply which too me spoilt the finish, it is noticible in a couple of small places as well but I can live with that. So while the paper was out and the stainless was about I designed and made up this small plate. Carefully cutting back the wood and routering out so it would sit flush with the surface I came up with this.

I was glad I had to do this in the end as this was the only place where I have came across any degradation of the ply glue and I think it is more down to water having got in the joints over a long time. Before it is finally fixed i will be soaking the area in epoxy to add strength and then the plate will sit flush with the deck.

[Sicobra]

Here are some pics of the speedo instructions and the back of the speedo, if this confirms I can use a newer style pitot it would be much safer, any thoughts?

also as requested a pic of the wheel cap fitting and main nut, hope this helps with the quiry?

[Rapier]

Being slow I couldn't quite work out the plumbing on it. Will have a more detailed look later..

Thanks for the pic; my retaining ring is rust and 1st pry last night meant a bit flicked back into my lower eyelid, ouch, but nothing moved, so I will give it a sound thrashing over the weekend with the dental pick..just my luck.

[Sicobra]

Oh, nasty, I never thought it would be a safety specs job!!!! The chrome trim centre is a bugger to get off without damaging, best of luck with it.