Albatross - What to look for??

[73miss]

Have just discovered a small space in the garden which needs filling so I may be looking at an Albatross this weekend.

Any pointers as to what to look out for?? Any good bits, bads bits and things that I should definitely avoid?

I wont be able to see it floating so I really need as many pointers as possible

Thanks in advance
Andy

[LaDauphine]

Lots of people can give you technical information. My only suggestion would be to buy as good a one as you can get, as a basket-case will cost you a lot in time and money, while a good one will not be that expensive. Buy one on which someone has already spent a lot of cash.

R

[Simmonds]

I have a Continental that needs a home and some TLC. The engine needs fitting (1600Ford X flow) plus some other bits.
contact me at d.howarth@homecall.co.uk

[Pete54]

If you're looking for information you might try the albatross register (just google it), this site does have some good stuff on albatross defects and rebuilds.

[Rapier]

The register is a good resource for all things Albatross.

[Jonty]

1. Sound hull. Look for signs of excessive filler, esp in sides as could indicate jettying or running aground. Look underneath for cracking/plating around the rudder & P bracket, also the 'bumps' (slightly forward of the front seat) which would indicate a lot of sea use. Also bottom should be bare, not painted as it impairs the efficiency of the heat exchanger tanks & is often done to hide poor condition.
2. Check deck fittings are all present as these are v. difficult to obtain/remake. All fittings are anodised, not chrome plated (except forward cleat & ski rope pole). All boats fitted with front cleat, 3x Windscreen brackets, 2x rear cleats, flag escutcheon, transom escutcheons & cast ally air intakes on bonnet (2 seater sport & continental). Some boats also have gunwale steps on the deck to protect the paintwork from brogues.
3. Check steering gear is all present. Avoid any that have been converted to ram type. Look for sound quadrant (easy to remake though), wire guide rollers (6 on 4 seater, 2 on sport), intact steering column.
4. Original light binnacle is preferred as rarer than flying pigs.
5. Look for original engine (for purists), preferably Coventry Climax for real purists. Back seat bulkheads are often partially cut out if non-standard engines have been fitted
6. Rudder, P bracket, prop, propshaft & bronze boss.
7. Rubbing rail. This is anodised ally with a rubber fender strip - virtually impossible to replace. Doesn't matter too much if the anodising has failed. Re-anodising is possible, but polishing the ally is almost as good if done often!. I've yet to find an exact match for the fender strip.
8. Check the Boat No. against the register. Plaque in engine compartment, rear bulkhead. 001-999 are 2 seater sport, 1001-1999 are the Continentals & 2001-202x are the Alpines (slipper). 000, 1000 or 2000 would indicate pre=production models (I've got 2000, amongst others).
Good luck