These remote controllers were ubiquitous from '1962-ish on. They were replacements for the earlier and simple two lever versions also called Shipmaster (Johnson) / Simplex (Evinrude)/ Bo'sun for Gale - often these are just branded BWP. The innards were exactly the same for all variants despite the tin plates riveted as identifiers, in order to support their marketing.. Bear in mind that Mercury had dropped their 2 lever version in 1960/61..so for OMC to continue to sell them well into the 1970s shows their 'appeal' and longevity. Personally I like them only if one has a single boat, but at one stage I had a Mercury single lever controller on one boat and the twin lever on another, which led to some interesting 'docking'. The throttle has to be closed to idle before the gear shifted, so it always seems like a lot of work (and some frantic hand movements).
Over the years I've had some controllers in horrible / corroded condition, but this one came with a nice 40hp Johnson I bought. The levers moved well enough, but I knew that over 56 years the innards needed looking over and servicing.
They're simple to service, if they come apart without using an impact driver. This one was easily unscrewed and once cleaned and put back together has no resistance. As with all controllers, don't go mad with the grease though; the levers are properly bushed and the base / top of those have a plastic roller that runs over a raised section. Unlike the Mercury remotes there are no metal to metal contacts.
Replacement cables for this box are Type 'O' or Type 400, pre-1979 (these cables were in common use from 1950 to 1978). They're quite hard to find in the UK now.
OMC Remotes - Johnson Shipmaster / Evinrude Simplex
OMC Remotes - Johnson Shipmaster / Evinrude Simplex
- Attachments
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- Front of controller...decal indicates what 'brand' the motor is.
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- Rear of controller - is handed, so the remote cables are just swapped from back of controller box (stbd side steering) to front end for port side steering.
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- Throttle side, before dismantling - little wear and both the sprung idle stop and throttle tension screws are intact - they typically seize through lack of use and break when removed, or adjusted.
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- Shift side, before dismantling - again shows little wear / use and no gunk inside.
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- Remove grub screws to dismantle. Plastic section in the middle of the lever can then be pushed out and the section removed.
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- Inner cable is heat-tempered on the cable ends. Helps with grip / prevents working of the metal when tightening the grub screws. When the ends are removed, the inner cable is pulled out of it's outer casing completely. I use wd-40 and an airline to blow the old grease / debris from the outer cable, then clean the inner cable before re-oiling the outer with spray inhibitor and then sliding the clean cable into it. Make sure the cable really is clean and doesn't pick up dirt from the workshop floor when installing.
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- Engine side sections are fitted to the cable before the remote side. Pull the cable engine out enough that you can guide the inner cable into the hole by hand before tightening the grub screws. Then you can push the cable back in and complete the controller end.
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- Shift lever re-installed
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- Throttle lever re-installed. The tension can be set using the plastic screw on the top of the controller and consists of a small plastic rachet that rubs up under the inside of the lever. This gives the lever some 'feel' when the throttle is opened and prevents the throttle from closing itself, when not being handled. The other plastic screw is used to set the engine idle such that when the throttle is closed enough (for shifting) the motor will not cut out.
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- Finished item..I added a bit of polish to help with water resistance and sprayed a small amount of outboard inhibitor in the interior, as the innards are open ot the elements.
Fasten bra straps and remove dentures...